Having The Right Gear Is So Important

In a world constantly trying to sell, sell , sell, it is really hard to know what is important and what isn’t, what you should be using or spend money on vs what you can go without.

As we all know from having an expensive hobby, such as the horse, anything containing the word “horse” is immediately costly; its like the word “wedding” its gold plated! Crazy right!! Plus they get us right in the feels (because we love our horse) all the clever marketing, making us feel as though we NEED certain things when in actual fact we don’t.

The main concern is the comfort, health and well being of our horses and ourselves.

Keeping this in mind we just need good quality functional equipment.

It is super important to have the right gear and of a good quality. An example of where I’m heading here; a gentle and comfortable bit will be much better for your horse if your hands aren’t quite right, for instance relying on the reins for balance or pulling at the horse accidentally. A good quality saddle pad will protect your horses spine and back muscles especially if the riders balance isn’t quite at one with the horse yet, this can cause severe impact on the back.

So even if you’re not riding at a competitive level it is still extremely important to make sure we are using gear that is going to give our horses the best in comfort and support.

Sometimes when trying a different discipline you are completely overwhelmed and totally perplexed at the different gear used (don’t worry, we’ve all been there) I remember asking a trainer about the latigos on a western saddle! I had no idea what kind of gigantic elephant the saddle I had just bought was used on, but how in the world I was meant to get the girth done up on my horse was beyond me! I was next to clueless! The trainer promptly got to showing me how to wrap it around to create the girth system that is used for western and some stock saddles and reassured me that they were the same when they first looked at one.

Everyone has to start somewhere and if you’re not asking questions you’re not learning; I encourage everyone to get in contact if you have a question or need some guidance, I am always more than happy to help and chat.

Here is a narrowed down list of the things you need of good quality.

• Rope Halter & Lead

• Saddle Pad

• Saddle

• Girth

• Protective & Support Boots

• Bit

• Helmet & Boots

Simplified it’s the things that we use on our horses directly when working them, or to protect them and ourselves, that we want to put the most thought into.

Rope Halter & Lead

There are a lot of halters out there in today’s market; I like to use a rope halter attached to a 12ft or 14ft lead with a bull snap or no snap depending on what I am doing.

The halter needs to be a thick, soft rope and two knots on the nose are plenty, anything too thin or stiff will be uncomfortable. This is a perfect combination for groundwork, and general handling.

Rope quality is a MUST! Double braided polyester is the most durable and comfortable for use in horse training equipment. Make sure anything labeled “polly” is in fact polyester not polypropylene which is a lower quality fiber. You don’t want to get caught out spending money on a rope that is made of low quality fiber as it will fade, dry and become stiff and even break over time.

Saddle Pad

Saddle pads are not just for decoration they are meant to provide comfort and support to protect the horses back and spine when a saddle is worn. There are so many saddle blankets and pads to choose from these days, most of which offer about as much support as if you just used the saddle itself without the pad or blanket.

The main functions of a saddle pad need to be absorb sweat and allow air flow, aid in protection of the spine and give correct support to the muscles of the back all whilst being comfortable for the horse to wear while working.

Believe it or not the wrong saddle pad can be detrimental to your saddle fit and your horses muscle development.

English saddles are much different to western and half breed stock saddles; English saddles have more padding underneath as a whole whereas western and some stock saddles are flat with synthetic or lambs wool. This means, that depending on the saddle and also the shape of your horse, determining the correct saddle pad needs some thought.

With an English saddle the pressure points are wherever that saddle connects to the horse. English saddles are much lighter and have their own padding underneath, your saddle should have enough padding underneath it to provide shock absorption, make sure you check this regularly as overtime the flocking compacts and offers next to no support. This is easily fixed by having your saddle re-flocked underneath by a saddler; because English saddles have this padding at the points of pressure a much thinner pad is all that is needed in comparison to western and stock saddles. The material needs to be durable so that it can be washed (a clean saddle pad is important; dirty, sweaty pads dry hard and can become irritating) it also needs to be breathable to allow the air to pass through and allow the horse to sweat whist absorbing that moisture. Depending on your horses shape and how well your saddle fits your horse may require extra padding, a riser or shims to make the best fit.

With my English saddles I use a square shaped quilted saddle pad as this allows a bit of cushioning and is great for air flow, and I also you a woolen numnah to give a little more extra padding just along the topline allowing for closer contact below. 

Western and Halfbreed stock saddles do not have the same padding as an English saddle they are much flatter and the weight is distributed evenly across the horses back rather than concentrated in localized pressure points. The saddles are much heavier and that has been allowed for with the even weight distribution in the design of these saddles. The main point of pressure contact with these types of saddles is generally the shoulder area, it is important to have your saddle fitting correctly and have enough even padding all along the horses back and that the pad is of good enough quality to hold it’s shape and offer support even through the shoulder area, a pad that flattens too much will not be benefiting your horse. A saddle pad for these types of saddles really need to be 1/2” to 1” thick, some horses require a thinner pad due to their shape, again this is all going to depend on your horses size, shape and saddle fit.

As a rule you want a really good quality material like wool/felt as this is durable, can be washed, doesn’t compress, aids in sweat absorption and is still breathable. You don’t want too long a pad as this will be uncomfortable for the horse and can even interfere with his hip action.

Some horses require a stiffer contoured pad and some are better with a floppy pad that has no artificial contoured shape.

Saddle

Saddles are so important to have fitting properly on your horse! It needs to be firm enough to stay in one place comfortably and not move around, it needs to not be putting hard pressure in any one place.

A wide channel in all types of saddles is best to look for as it allows the spine adequate room to move and to not put pressure directly either side of the spine; the horse needs freedom of his back and no interference to be able to lift and hold himself correctly while working.

The correct gullet size and bar angle is also a must. A poorly fitting saddle can affect correct muscle development, causes pain and discomfort and can even lead to behavioral problems (sometimes your horse is trying to tell you something, listen)

Whilst fitting the horse is super important it is also extremely important to make sure the saddle fits you correctly too!

Too big a saddle will have you slipping around off balance and too small a saddle will have you off balance front end loading your horse. Experiment with saddle size before you commit to spending a lot of money and remember that saddle “seat size” is not just about the size of your jeans, take into consideration your height especially the length of your thigh bone when choosing a saddle.

A saddle is something that you don’t want to skimp on, but at the same time you don’t have to spend thousands, a cheap well fitting saddle is better than an expensive saddle that doesn’t fit and vice versa.

You want something that fits correctly to yourself and the horse, you want it to be comfortable for you both and you want it to last.

I have now swapped all of my saddles over to lightweight trees, my horses have really appreciated the change. I am also using DP Saddles that have an adjustable gullet system which means I can have one saddle that fits multiple horses.

Girth

Girths are one of those things that often get forgotten about or brushed off as not important. So many horses go around with an uncomfortable girth, too hot material, an old girth that has lumps and bumps in it, one that pinches or rubs.

Horses have to deal with so much, it really is amazing how much they put up with. Horses will tell you when they are uncomfortable, you just need to look and listen. I have really struggled with girths over the years, too hot, too wide, pinching, rubbing you name it.

It is important to take a look and make sure your girth is sitting in the correct position and isn’t too short or too long.

Horses have nerves running through the girth area and if the girth puts pressure in the wrong place it can be very harmful.

I have had best results with wool girths.

Protective & Support Boots

Over the years I have tried various brands of protective boots on my horses; the main reason being to protect their legs from getting clipped with another hoof, protection whilst jumping and to prevent damage to the ligaments.

Basically all boots are made from some kind of neoprene, they all vary in design and marketing.

I always use boot on my horses especially young horses!

I also use skid boots on my horses, I always have boots on all four legs it just depends what I am doing.

Hind boots or skid boots protect the bumpers of your horse when they get into the ground for stops and spins. I have had much better results with my horses committing to stops and spins since using hind boots as they don’t get burnt from the ground. This in turn makes them not shy of getting in the ground and getting their hind feet underneath them.

Bits

I am very simple, I believe “less is more”; basically anything can be achieved with good hands and lots of riding. There are a number of different pieces of gear available to aid with head carriage along with bit designs by the hundreds. At the end of the day no bit or gimmick will replace a correctly balanced working horse that is something that is trained over time.

I like all of my horses to go in a snaffle bit, I believe that it is the most comfortable and effective bit for training and everyday riding.

Why go for a harsher bit when obviously there is something amiss in your horses training, why not stick with your snaffle and come back to the basics to re-asses and fix the issues?

There is a common misconception that snaffle bits are soft but in actual fact what makes a bit soft or harsh are the hands that use it, a simple snaffle bit can be extremely harsh in the wrong hands.

Make it your mission in your horsemanship journey to work on the timing of your hands to always give your horse the release needed, ride in a conscious effort so you are aware of not using the reins to lean/balance on.

Snaffle bits come in a range of different designs on the sides like a loose ring snaffle, D ring snaffle, full cheek bars commonly known as an FM, smaller cheek pieces like a tom thumb, and a number of different hinged or fixed sides.

I recommend a loose ring, D ring or eggbutt snaffle with a leather chin strap, the chin strap will stop the bit coming all the way out of the horses mouth in a freak or emergency situation.

A bit is something that needs to be comfortable. I also believe that too thick a bit isn’t very nice to hold in their mouths and neither is a really thin one, aim for something between the two.

Snaffle bits can be two piece or they can be broken into three pieces. There has been a lot of talk about the “nutcracker” effect that a single jointed snaffle bit has on the mouth; this meaning that in direct pressure the two pieces bend at the join and hit the roof of the horses mouth, this is debatable as I have never had issues with two piece snaffles, again I think it is the hands that use them that makes the issues. If your horse has mouth or head carriage issues or if you are still working on these things or your hands I recommend a three piece bit.

There should be no need to move out of a snaffle bit unless you yourself and horses are educated enough to use a double bridle or are moving up in western disciplines. Transitions bits are excellent for going from a snaffle into your first use of leverage as they are still regarded as snaffle mouth piece just with shanks to introduce leverage.

A good correctional bit is an excellent step up from a transition bit when training more advanced western work.

Solid bits, ported bits, palate pressure and and gag bits are not designed to fix your horse or make them stop (only correct training can do that and give lasting results) they are made for the schooled horse who has stepped up into the finer levels of training and require refined communication. Be it high level dressage or bridled horses in western disciplines, they all started with correct training and progressed up the levels. These bits are commonly mistaken to be harsh (again in the wrong hands that is true) but for a highly schooled horse and a skilled rider these bits are designed to communicate as quietly as possible meaning they are not harsh at all in the right scenario.

Be sure that you are very confident in your horse before trying a different bit. I believe that taking the time and going back to the basics in just an ordinary snaffle bit are the cure for any head and mouth issues. There is no quick fix, buying a new bit will NOT solve all your problems. There is no magic piece of equipment and there is no substitute for good hands and timing.

It is also a good idea to have your horses teeth checked by an Equine Dentist as bad teeth can cause incredible pain for your horse with a bit in his mouth not to mention everyday living and eating. Discomfort in the mouth will also show through when riding.

Checking the placement of the bit in the horses mouth is also a big one as they are all different shapes and sizes. If your bridle is too tight the bit may be banging on teeth, same as if your bridle is too loose. It pays to open their mouth when the bridle is on and just check where exactly the bit is sitting, it’s all well and good to have the bridle fit the horses head but does it fit their mouth too?

The size of the bit is important, too small and it will pinch the sides of their mouth and too big you could loose an element of control. Different disciplines fit bits differently, English like to have a snugger fitting bit while western and stock tends to be on the looser larger side. This is something that depends on the level of the horse and rider training and is a personal feel between the horse and rider, it depends entirely on the way you and your horse communicate. There is no right or wrong way it is simply different. Depending on the horse I am riding I may have a different feel with them. We are all different, horses and riders so it is important to take that into consideration.

Something as small as the bit is actually a very big deal to make sure that the time is taken to get the right one, a good quality bit doesn’t have to be expensive but you don’t want something too light and of cheap material or terrible taste.

Remember that your horses mouth is extremely important and sensitive, comfort is a must!! Check how your bit works, where does it put pressure, is the pressure even? Does it pinch the horse anywhere? Remember any pain or resistance in the horses mouth will show in your horses willingness to work. You want your horse to be comfortable and happy to be ridden so it is important to take the time to look into these things.

I am extremely passionate about bridle-less riding, I honestly think that if you are having trouble you are far better off to take gear away and start from the foundation up rather than use more or harsher gear.

I use halters, neck ropes & hackamores, all of which can be used incorrectly and harshly if you are not careful.

I love trying to refine the communication with my horses, it is such an interesting challenge and I think it really shows how well your communication and training is with your horse when you take away the props.

Helmet & Boots

Safety is a big thing when it comes to horses, they are so much bigger and stronger than us and sometimes something so simple or innocent can really hurt us. It is important to have a good quality safety helmet and boots.

You will most probably notice in photos that I wear a helmet some of the time, not all of the time; this is a personal choice. I feel safer and more confident wearing a helmet riding young horses or horses that I don’t know, while my own personal horses I don’t feel the need. This is not to say that something couldn’t happen with my own horse because as we all know accidents happen. I always wear a helmet competing now and always on young horses. I even wear a helmet during ground work and encourage people to do the same.

There is no price on your noggin so make sure you invest in a decent helmet!

Boots are really so you don’t get your toes squished; no one likes a squished toe. I like to invest in a decent pair of waterproof boots, these last much longer as it doesn’t matter if they get wet (puddles, washing horses) at least they don’t crack right away plus the bulky leather is great padding against squished toes. So long as they last and are comfortable and offer some form of protection then you’re good.

I like my riding boots a size too big so that if a foot was to get caught in the stirrup in an accident the boot can come off and there is less chance of getting hung up.

The conversations really are endless regarding tack and gear, this is just a list of what I believe to be the essentials that cannot be skimmed over and need extra thought; things like bridles and other tack are a personal preference and really just need to be a good quality so that they don’t break, and a nice fit so that the horse is comfortable.

If you have any questions or want some guidance please get in touch and I happily point you in the right direction.